The Split Experience
Our drive to Split was pretty evenly divided between backroads and Interstate. We saw beautiful farmland and lots of sheep farms. We missed the giant black bear viewed by Jim and Julie, though. We bought gas for the second time with no trouble, Ok, I did have a bit of trouble with the paying bathroom. One person could go free, but the second person had to pay through a machine. I finally mastered it. Arrival to the hotel was a bit tricky for us. We found very narrow streets and no parking. Our innkeeper quickly came to the rescue, helped us unload our luggage, and then took George and Jim to the nearby parking lot.
We had to walk up a flight of very steep stairs to get to our apartment. We are housed in a 450 year old building with large rock walls. We found the walk to The Palace to be short and that is where the real adventure began.
The Diocletian Palace is the main attraction. It was built as a retirement home for a Roman emperor around 300 AD. It is very well preserved and we wandered throughout most of the Palace freely. I didn’t make it to the top of the bell tower in this trip, but Jim and George climbed the 178 stairs. The cellar, once filled with water from three different sources, has now been made to replicate the upstairs residency and entertainment venues that the emperor enjoyed. There are countless restaurants and shops within the palace walls. We enjoyed a breakfast just within the Palace Gate one morning. Our best time was getting lost wandering the small alleys within the palace walls and just exploring freely. We found great restaurants, wine bars, shops selling local wears, and maybe the best gelato ever! Seriously, don’t skip the gelato. We recommend Emiliana’s Gelataria.
The Riva was maybe our favorite stop. It’s a promenade along the waterfront and a great place to people watch. It offered great views of the waterfront and the palace, and a bustling outdoor restaurant scene. I watched a quite elaborate filming of some sort as I sat quietly on the Riva. I was told I would be the background person in one particular scene. Lol.
We had dinner at Bahamonti one night in the center of the People’s Square. In addition to the great food, and the great view, we witnessed a beautiful bride and groom. I think we barely missed the exchange of the wedding vows but there were great pictures and dancing in the piazza.
Then, of course, we had to take care of some mundane things—like laundry. Just down our path, after looking in previous towns unsuccessfully, we found a full service laundromat. It was worth every penny (well, Euro), and I wish I could fold clothes like she does.
On another day, we took an hour long ferry ride to the island of Havr- the Riviera of Croatia. Hvar is a destination in itself but we only had a day there. We walked the waterfront and the grand Saint Stephen’s Square. The Spartan games were happening in the square. It was a bunch of young athletes competing on obstacle courses that reminded me of American Ninja Warrior. The highlight of our trip was a wine tour to the Lacman Family Vineyard. Our driver gave us a brief history of the island as we viewed very rocky farmland where great lavender fields once existed. Most lavender production has now moved elsewhere and the island now produces more grapes than lavender. As a consequence, many villages are now abandoned. We understand the abandoned village property is for sale. Anyone interested? Upon reaching the winery, we attended a tasting of their six wines. It was an outdoor setting, very beautiful, and we got to know another couple with us, Kerry and Patrick. Proving once again that we live in a small world, Patrick was employed by Lockheed Martin for 40 years. He and George loved exchanging stories. We purchased a few lavender souvenirs and, a bottle of wine before returning to the ferry port.
On our last morning in Croatia, George lugged my suitcases and his backpack down the narrow stairs and and to the car before taking one more walk into the palace area to pick up a few souvenirs for the grands and to enjoy one more breakfast within the walls. This is a place we will not soon forget!
