the Spirit of Sarajevo
The drive from Albania to Sarajevo was a treat! Ok, the roads were pretty atrocious. We faced long distances of construction work and some unpaved roads as well as small, narrow, bumpy roads where meeting oncoming traffic became a challenge. The narrow streets in Sarajevo with two way traffic became one of the biggest challenges. Still, that aside, the scenery was unbelievable. We passed through a beautiful gorge, reminiscent of the Pacific Northwest. We saw crystal clear water, beautiful mountains with amazing valley views and so much more. We even got a taste of fall with the pretty autumn leaves. When we thought we were done, we ended up on a small road high above the gorge, looking down on the lake, passing through tunnel after tunnel. It truly was breathtaking. Unfortunately, there were few places to pull over and take pics so our photos are limited. For you adventurers out there, whitewater rafting is a big business here. There are villages that focus on the rafting industry. I imagine rafting through the gorge would be quite a thrill!
Our hotel in Sarajevo, the Isa Begov Hamam, allows us to feel like we are stepping back into the Ottoman empire. Later pictures will explain. Our first night we took a quick walk into the Old Town just across the street. We found a street side restaurant and tried one of the traditional foods, cevapi. Ours consisted of a pita bread stuffed with sausages fresh onions and a sauce.
The following days we immersed ourselves in Bosnian culture, history, and the landscape. The free walking tour of the Old Town was a highlight for us. We viewed up close the iconic monuments, fountains, churches, synagogues, and mosques. Stories told by our guide about his parents during the war made this an unforgettable experience. He spoke about how Sarajevo was the centerpiece of the world for the 1984 Olympics and then just eight years later the siege began. The entire city was in denial and believed that it would never happen. He conveyed the story of his father opening his business on the day the siege began. After hearing his stories, we wonder why the world just sat around and ignored the situation. It was described to us as a genocide of the Muslim people by the Serbs. I do wonder what the other side of the story might be at our next stop, Belgrade, Serbia. We were told to expect a different perspective there.
Sarajevo, a mixture of the Ottoman empire influence as well as the Austria – Hungary influence provided a unique experience. The famous fountain outside the mosque first built in 1753 brought stories about earlier fountains built in the 1400s. That was many years before the Roman empire completed their aqueducts and way before other civilizations had a water system. We walked down the oldest street in the Old Town where coppersmiths were still working at their trade. The old indoor market that once attracted traders from around the world now houses vendors selling local products -especially rugs and fabric items.
While walking to the Latin Bridge, the assassination spot of Archduke Ferdinand of Austria – Hungary (1914, the start of WW1), we met a gregarious German tourist. He, hesitantly, asked us our age. When we told him, he grimaced. I was a little taken aback, but in retrospect I have decided to claim it as a compliment. He proceeded to tell us that his parents were the same age and they refused to travel at all. He then said he would go back and tell them our story. He, himself, was not driving in these countries and was amazed that we had rented cars. Our paths were meant to cross. We saw him again the next day at the Tunnel of Hope. The tunnel, used during the wartime to bring supplies, medicine, guns, and people in and out of the city, was a stark reminder of the war. The actual tunnel was in repair so we only saw a bit of it, but we did walk through a replica. Our taxi driver to and from the tunnel was a jewel. He told us he had fought in the war and spent time in the tunnel. Then, he held his hands up to the sky and said, ” but my family is complete.” That was his way of telling us that no one in his family had been killed. Then, on our return to the hotel, he asked us if we would like to see his synagogue . He proudly walked us around, showed us the oldest part of the cemetery, told us it was the second largest Jewish cemetery in the world, with Prague being the largest. He then handed us a stone and demonstrated for us that we should place it on top of a monument in the churchyard. After a little research, I believe that was to symbolize as respect for the deceased.
Now, for a little bit of this and that-
George and Jim had their first Hamam experience. There was a free hamam in our hotel open to women in the morning and men in the afternoon. Julie and I opted for a massage and my reflexology treatment was the best ever. Prices are cheap. The massage was the equivalent of 50 euros, and most meals cost only about 30 or 40 euros for two people including drinks. Tap water is never served in restaurants although it is potable. The food dishes are large and made for sharing. We think we are cutting back on our orders each time but always have leftover food. Every meal comes with homemade bread of some sort. The call to prayer would awake us every morning at about 6:15. Our in-house breakfast was much like a Turkish breakfast with about 20 little bowls of condiments, along with bread, and eggs, anyway we like them. Parking is the most expensive thing about this city. And walking the streets can be life threatening. Cars do not slow down for pedestrians in this city. I met a super sweet artist who did most of her work with aluminum and copper. I found a small inexpensive piece that I really wanted to bring home but her store never reopened. I called her on my last day, she met me at her studio, and I made my purchase. She was so excited to have a piece of her work going to the US. She wanted a photograph of the two of us together with the art piece. So fun! A popular famous Bosnian coffee house and tea house was another unique experience. George didn’t love the coffee but is glad he had the experience. There is a ritual for pouring the coffee into the cup and then there is a secondary drink you are encouraged to consume when finishing the coffee. The dessert shop is another must experience. The hot chocolate is like your grandma used to make with whipped cream on top and the baklava desserts are beautiful and tasty! We missed the cable car because of the fog. I guess now there is a reason to return.
