Galicia
October 8, 2013
The train ride to Sarria was just as enjoyable as we expected. We noted major changes in the landscape as we travelled west. We left behind the grapes, hay, and plowed, fertile but dry land for an abundance of lakes, rivers, streams, and small family farms. The large cathedrals were replaced with small stone churches. The large, modern cities were replaced with very small villages. However, the train to Sarria became more and more crowded with pilgrims hoping to complete the last 100 km of the walk in order to receive the Compestela, the certificate of completion.
Upon exiting the train in Sarria, I felt for a minute like we had been transported to Disney World and to the newest attraction; the Camino Adventure Experience. There were people of all cultures, speaking a multitude of languages, all sporting new, way-to-heavy, backpacks, some with additional suitcases, shiny hiking boots and trekking poles. One group stood just outside the station singing song after song together. Others began trudging up the mountain while others were whisked away in taxis. It was the first indication that we were in for a big change!
We decided to consult our map, found our way up to a very cool alberque, Don Alvaro. After dinner in the Italian restaurant next door, we returned to the alberque and congregated in the fireplace room where we were finally warm for the first time in a while. (Incidentally, while at the Italian restaurant, a much needed change from the usual fare, we were able to Skype both Asa and Hayden, and we did withstand the cold outside to see the grands!) Back in the fireplace room, yes, it was a little room with a big fireplace and Don himself invited some locals to bring their guitars and entertain us. We never saw any guitars. They were a rambunctious bunch, telling jokes and singing for us and it appeared they had been partying quite a bit before their arrival. There, we met three young Spanish guys, obviously very smart and at the top of their class, majoring in international trade. Each was awaiting his assignment to a Spanish embassy; all expecting to go to different continents. They were amazed that North Americans travelled to Spain just to hike the Camino and were very interested in our reasons for the hike. They were also quite concerned about the economic crisis facing their country and the concern that Spanish citizens could no longer get loans for homes yet, according to them, many cities now had a larger German population than a Spanish population.
We left early the following morning for our first day in Galicia. It is exactly as I imagine Ireland. Green farmlands, misty, rock walls, small churches constructed of stones and ivy growing much like kudzu grows in Georgia. Dairy farms were everywhere and the smell that accompanies the dairy farms was in the air. Every home housed at least one German Shepard! Thankfully, all of our dog encounters have been friendly ones. Instead of choosing an end destination at the beginning of the day, we decided we’d just make the decision along the way. Sounds reasonable but that didn’t work so well for us. “Let’s move ahead the next hostel”, we’d say. 22 KM later we arrived in Portomarin. The last 5 km were agonizing for Shelly and I. The first hostel was full; remember those zillion tourist on the bus yesterday but we fortunately found two private rooms next door. We were freezing, I think from exhaustion, but a warm shower returned us to life and we had a great dinner at El Mirador. We watched a lovely sunset over the reservoir that has covered the old town. Before the river was dammed, the old churches were moved, stone-by-stone, to their current location. Amazing.
I almost forgot to mention the amazing people of Galicia that we met along the trail. About an hour out of town, a young man had a small table set up offering us fruit, juices, bread, coffee, and tea. He had a donation box and that was it. Later in the day, a young lady was outside her ancient home offering homemade cookies and hot tea/coffee. She invited us into her home. She was trying to replicate an authentic Galician home and she readily showed us her wood-burning oven and earthen floors. Man, she has a lot of work to do. Right now, it is an old building with barely a roof. We wish her the best!
We are quick learners so our second day in Galicia was quite short. We walked only about 13 km to Casa Molar and despite the name, there was no dentist there. We did some laundry and, with a short day, actually had time to read and relax. We were in a very small village with one very small restaurant. Starving, we couldn’t wait to eat and were disappointed when, once again, we realized the restaurant didn’t open until 7:30 pm. I think the owner took pity on us and let us order about 30 minutes early.
Our hiking days are beginning to run together and it is difficult to distinguish between them. We are noticing that the crowds have diminished a bit, thank goodness. The towns are smaller and farther apart and the hostels are small as well. It seems there are ‘special’ hostels for the large groups. The mist hangs around until mid-day and it is a bit scary when the trail is near the road. It is particularly treacherous for the bikers (who must complete 200 km to receive the compestela) through this area. The food doesn’t change much either so we are back to nuts, fruit, and cheese on the trail and always hoping to find an exceptionally well-prepared local dinner somewhere.
After a break in Palas de Rei on day 3 in Galicia, we made our way to Alberque Casa Domingo. What a jewel! The owners met us with free tapas and white wine. We were told it is one of the top 10 wines in the world….still trying to get the name….and it costs us here Euros 6/ bottle.
For two days, we’ve hypothesized about the unusual little raised buildings in every yard. They measure about 3 ft by 12 ft. Could it be an outhouse? A storage area? A wine cellar? A place to age meat? A shrine? Some were fancy and some very plain. We’ll include a pic soon. Actually, it is just a place to store feed corn. I guess we were hoping for something really unique. Well, it certainly doesn’t look like our silos in the US.
Hoping now for a great Galician dinner! Starving again and it is 1.5 hours until the 7:30 dinner time.
**Pictures to be posted soon!
